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Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant

Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du GéantArête des Cosmiques and Dent du GéantArête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant

Details

Location

( 45.861801 N, 6.948000 E )
  • 790 €

  • 4013 m

  • Beginners

  • AD+ Moderate
    French Alpine Grade (AD+)

    Fairly hard, snow and ice at an angle of 45-55 degrees, rock climbing up to UIAA grade III, but not sustained, belayed climbing in addition to a large amount of exposed but easier terrain. Significant objective hazard.
    Physical Endurance

    Moderate (8-11 hours)

  • 2 days
Beginners

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Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant

Dent du Géant (The Giant Tooth) is a 4013 meter peak situated on the French-Italian border in the massif of Mont Blanc. It is one of the most impressive rock needle in the region. The Cosmique Ridge of Aiguille du Midi offers comparatively easy mixed climbing, which is at the same time impressively beautiful and panoramic. Both peaks require complex climbing skills, however the fast approach and short length of the routes makes them the perfect goals for beginner climbers.




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The Cosmiques Ridge is a very popular route as it is an excellent intro to mixed alpine climbing. It offers all a mountaineer could want – interesting approach, which includes descent by a sharp snowy ridge, short walk on a glacier, climbing on good quality rock, some mixed climbing too and also few rappels. Due to the fast approach the route can be done for 3-4 hours considered from Aiguille du Midi lift station and back to it. The maximum technical difficulty is a short crux 4b/c, 200 meters altitude gain.

Climbing Dent du Géant to a certain extend resembles climbing Matterhorn. The approach to the needle is not easy and can be dangerous in the beginning of the season, because the melting snow and other climbers can cause stonefalls. The normal route offers climbing on solid rock and fixed ropes at the difficult parts. Dent du Géant actually has 2 different summits divided by a short and very sharp ridge - Pointe Graham (4013m) and Pointe Sella (4009m). The difficulty of the route with using the fixed ropes is AD (3+ A0), and the length of the needle itself is 250m.




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Prices

Per person for minimum 2 clients - 790 €

For individual client - 1258 €

The group is maximum 2 people.

The Price Includes

- All guiding fees;
- Group climbing equipment (ropes & karabiners);
- 1 night accommodation in Rifugio Torino;
- Lift tickets (cable-cars).

The Price Does Not Include

- Travel to and from Chamonix;
- Lodging in Chamonix;
- Mountain rescue insurance;
- Meals.




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Itinerary

Day 1: Cosmiques Ridge

We will leave Chamonix at 9 a.m. and take the lift to Aiguille du Midi. Here we will leave the extra luggage and go down to the glacier at the foot of the Cosmiques Ridge. Depending on the business of the route and the snow conditions the climb can take 3-4 hours. After we reach the lift station we will also climb the peak of the Southeast wall which is short and very beautiful. When we finish the climb we will take the cable car to Torino hut where we will stay for the night.

Day 2: Dent du Géant

We will leave Torino hut at 6.30 a.m. The foot of the rock massif is being reached by an easy walk on the glacier. Then there is an easy to climb terrain which will lead us to the foot of the pillar. When we pass that part of the route we will reach a panoramic snowy-icy ridge, leading to the beginning of the normal route itself. Climbing the pillar takes 2-4 hours, and getting down takes roughly an hour.

Best Season

Summer

Experience

To take part in this climb you need to be in good physical condition, have previous climbing experience, good mastery of belaying, rapelling, working with climbing equipment and rock climbing min. grade 5.




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Personal Equipment

- 40-litre rucksack;
- Mountaineering boots - warm and suitable for crampons;
- Gaiters (with a strap under the boot);
- Crampons with anti-balling system;
- Classic ice axe;
- 1 or 2 telescopic ski poles;
- Lightweight and comfortable climbing harness + cow`s-tail with screw-gate karabiner;
- Lightweight helmet;
- Warm socks (+ spare pair);
- Carline-type thermal T-shirt, avoid using cotton as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly;
- Polar fleece sweater;
- Down or Thermolite jacket;
- Carline-type or stretch polar fleece leggings;
- Waterproof jacket (with hood) and over-trousers (Gore Tex);
- Hat or headband;
- Balaclava;
- Sunglasses;
- Pair of lightweight gloves;
- Pair of warm gloves or mittens;
- High SPF sun cream;
- 1-litre insulated water bottle;
- Snack food.




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Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant

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Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant

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Mountaineering   »   Europe   »     »   Alps   »   Mont Blanc   »   Chamonix Viewed 1741 times


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